World Literary Awards

← Back to Home

Craig Luebben

クレイグ・ルーベン

Kureigu Rūbben

Profile

Gender
Male
Born
1960-05-20 (Iowa, United States)
Died
2009-08-09 (North Cascades National Park, Washington, United States) age 49
Nationality
United States
Languages
English
Residence History
Born in Iowa → Moved to Colorado at age seven

Career

Occupations
Rock climber, Mechanical engineer, Educator, Writer, Mountain guide
Active Years
1991-2006
Affiliations
Climbing Magazine (senior contributing editor), American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA)
Memberships
American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA)
Influenced By
John Long

Education

Colorado State University
College of Engineering / Mechanical Engineering
Degree: 学士(機械工学)
Country: United States
Designed the wide-crack protection device "Big Bro" as part of his mechanical engineering degree

Awards

National Outdoor Book Award
2004
Work: Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
Category: 指導(Instructional)
Organization: National Outdoor Book Awards
Result: 受賞

Awards & Nominations

Works

Major Works

A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock

1991 Guidebook

A guide to climbing routes and access information around Greyrock, Colorado.

local guideroute descriptions

Knots for Climbers

1995 Instructional / Technical

A practical illustrated manual of knots used in climbing. Published in multiple editions.

safetytechnical instruction

Advanced Rock Climbing (co-authored with John Long)

1997 Advanced instructional / Technical

An advanced instructional book covering techniques and tactics for experienced climbers. Co-authored with John Long.

advanced techniquesropework

How to Climb: How to Ice Climb!

1999 Instructional / Beginner guide

An introductory guide to ice climbing techniques and equipment.

ice climbingequipment and techniques

How to Rappel!

2000 Instructional

A practical illustrated guide to rappelling techniques for beginners.

descending techniquessafety management

Go Climb!

2001 Beginner guide / Essays

An introductory book conveying the joys of climbing.

introductionpersonal experiences

Betty And The Silver Spider: Welcome To Gym Climbing

2002 Children's / Educational

A children's book introducing gym climbing through story and instruction.

childreneducation

Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills

2004 Instructional / Textbook

A comprehensive systematic presentation of basic rock-climbing skills. Winner of the 2004 National Outdoor Book Award (Instructional).

basic skillsinstruction

Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide

2006 Technical / Comprehensive guide

A detailed technical book on placing and evaluating anchors in climbing.

anchorssafety engineering

Bibliography

  • A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock
  • Knots for Climbers
  • Advanced Rock Climbing (co-authored)
  • How to Climb: How to Ice Climb!
  • How to Rappel!
  • Go Climb!
  • Betty And The Silver Spider: Welcome To Gym Climbing
  • Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
  • Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide

Style & Themes

Literary Style
Practical, technical instructional writingClear, step-by-step exposition often with illustrations
Recurring Motifs
safety and risk managementtechnical precisionethics and respect for the outdoors

Legacy

Craig Luebben was widely recognized for his instructional climbing books and gear design (the Big Bro). After his death, the American Mountain Guides Association established the Craig Luebben Education Fund to provide scholarships for aspiring mountain guides.

Academic Societies

  • American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA)

Quotes

  • Craig was a 5.12 climber in that he could likely onsight any 5.12 on the planet.
    Source: Climbing.com article (archived)

Trivia

  • Designed the wide-crack protection device "Big Bro" while at university.
  • Won the 2004 National Outdoor Book Award (Instructional) for "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills".
  • Died in a climbing accident on Mount Torment in the North Cascades, Washington in 2009.