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Edition 8 (2004) Winner
Craig Luebben
クレイグ・ルーベン
Kureigu Rūbben
Profile
- Gender
- Male
- Born
- 1960-05-20 (Iowa, United States)
- Died
- 2009-08-09 (North Cascades National Park, Washington, United States) age 49
- Nationality
- United States
- Languages
- English
- Residence History
- Born in Iowa → Moved to Colorado at age seven
Career
- Occupations
- Rock climber, Mechanical engineer, Educator, Writer, Mountain guide
- Active Years
- 1991-2006
- Affiliations
- Climbing Magazine (senior contributing editor), American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA)
- Memberships
- American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA)
- Influenced By
- John Long
Education
| Institution | Faculty | Department | Degree | Period | Country |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Colorado State University | College of Engineering | Mechanical Engineering | 学士(機械工学) | — | United States |
Awards
| Year | Award | Work | Category | Organization | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2004 | National Outdoor Book Award | Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills | 指導(Instructional) | National Outdoor Book Awards | 受賞 |
Awards & Nominations
Works
Major Works
A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock
1991 GuidebookA guide to climbing routes and access information around Greyrock, Colorado.
Knots for Climbers
1995 Instructional / TechnicalA practical illustrated manual of knots used in climbing. Published in multiple editions.
Advanced Rock Climbing (co-authored with John Long)
1997 Advanced instructional / TechnicalAn advanced instructional book covering techniques and tactics for experienced climbers. Co-authored with John Long.
How to Climb: How to Ice Climb!
1999 Instructional / Beginner guideAn introductory guide to ice climbing techniques and equipment.
How to Rappel!
2000 InstructionalA practical illustrated guide to rappelling techniques for beginners.
Go Climb!
2001 Beginner guide / EssaysAn introductory book conveying the joys of climbing.
Betty And The Silver Spider: Welcome To Gym Climbing
2002 Children's / EducationalA children's book introducing gym climbing through story and instruction.
Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
2004 Instructional / TextbookA comprehensive systematic presentation of basic rock-climbing skills. Winner of the 2004 National Outdoor Book Award (Instructional).
Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide
2006 Technical / Comprehensive guideA detailed technical book on placing and evaluating anchors in climbing.
Bibliography
- A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock
- Knots for Climbers
- Advanced Rock Climbing (co-authored)
- How to Climb: How to Ice Climb!
- How to Rappel!
- Go Climb!
- Betty And The Silver Spider: Welcome To Gym Climbing
- Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
- Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide
Style & Themes
- Literary Style
- Practical, technical instructional writingClear, step-by-step exposition often with illustrations
- Recurring Motifs
- safety and risk managementtechnical precisionethics and respect for the outdoors
Legacy
Craig Luebben was widely recognized for his instructional climbing books and gear design (the Big Bro). After his death, the American Mountain Guides Association established the Craig Luebben Education Fund to provide scholarships for aspiring mountain guides.
Academic Societies
- American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA)
Quotes
-
Craig was a 5.12 climber in that he could likely onsight any 5.12 on the planet.
Source: Climbing.com article (archived)
Trivia
- Designed the wide-crack protection device "Big Bro" while at university.
- Won the 2004 National Outdoor Book Award (Instructional) for "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills".
- Died in a climbing accident on Mount Torment in the North Cascades, Washington in 2009.