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Peter Gillman

ピーター・ギルマン

Peter Gillman

Profile

Gender
Male
Born
1942-01-01
Nationality
British
Languages
English

Career

Occupations
writer, journalist, mountaineering writer
Active Years
1965-
Affiliations
The Sunday Times (contributor), Weekend Telegraph (former employer)

Education

Dulwich College
Period: 1953–1961
Year of Graduation: 1961
Country: United Kingdom
University College, Oxford
Period: 1961–1964
Year of Graduation: 1964
Country: United Kingdom
Served as editor of The Isis magazine while at Oxford

Awards

Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
2000
Work: The Wildest Dream (Biography of George Mallory)
Organization: Boardman Tasker organization
Result: winner
Outdoor Book Award (OWPG Awards for Excellence)
2015
Work: Extreme Eiger
Organization: Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild
Result: winner

Awards & Nominations

Works

Major Works

Direttissima; the Eiger Assault

1967 mountaineering non-fiction

An account of the ascent of the Eiger North Face, including the fatality of John Harlin II.

mountaineeringrisktrue account

The Plumbat Affair

1978 investigative non-fiction

Investigative account related to Operation Plumbat.

investigative journalismcovert operations

Fitness on Foot: Climbing and Walking for Pleasure

1978 practical / outdoor

A guide to fitness for climbing and walking for pleasure.

fitnessoutdoor activities

Collar the lot!: How Britain Interned and Expelled Its Wartime Refugees

1980 historical non-fiction

Examines Britain's internment and expulsion of wartime refugees.

wartime historyhuman rights

Alias David Bowie: A Biography

1987 biography

A biography of David Bowie (co-authored).

biographymusic

The Duty Men: The Inside Story of the Customs

1987 non-fiction

Inside story of customs (co-authored).

institutional insidernon-fiction

In Balance: Twenty Years of Mountaineering Journalism

1989 essays / mountaineering literature

Collection reflecting on twenty years of mountaineering journalism.

mountaineeringnon-fictionretrospective

Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour

1993 anthology (editor)

An anthology collecting notable writing and pictures about Everest (co-edited).

Everesthistory of mountaineering

The Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory

2000 biography / mountaineering history

Biography of George Mallory, detailing his life and attempts on Everest; served as inspiration/consultation source for a film of the same name.

biographyexplorationmountaineering history
Adaptations
  • [film (documentary)] The Wildest Dream (film)

Everest: Eighty Years of Triumph and Tragedy

2001 mountaineering history

A compendium of eighty years of triumph and tragedy on Everest.

Everesthistory

Extreme Eiger

2015 mountaineering non-fiction

Account of an ascent of the Eiger North Face in 1965; won the OWPG Outdoor Book Award in 2015.

mountaineeringEigerretrospective

Murder in Cairo: The Killing of David Holden

2025 journalistic non-fiction

Investigative account of the killing of journalist David Holden (co-authored).

investigative journalismmurder case

Bibliography

  • Direttissima; the Eiger Assault (1967)
  • The Plumbat Affair (1978)
  • Fitness on Foot: Climbing and Walking for Pleasure (1978)
  • Collar the lot! (1980)
  • Alias David Bowie: A Biography (1987)
  • The Duty Men (1987)
  • In Balance (1989)
  • Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures (1993)
  • The Wildest Dream (2000)
  • Everest: Eighty Years of Triumph and Tragedy (2001)
  • Extreme Eiger (2015)
  • Murder in Cairo (2025)

Adaptations

  • The Wildest Dream (inspired the film of the same name; served as historical consultants)

Style & Themes

Literary Style
fact-focused investigative non-fiction stylea blend of mountaineering literature and journalism
Recurring Motifs
the dangers of mountaineering and human dramaexploration and inquiryre-examination of historical events

Legacy

Peter Gillman is a writer and journalist who bridged mountaineering literature and investigative journalism. He is highly regarded in mountain literature for works such as The Wildest Dream and is known for long service at national newspapers and numerous co-authored books.

Trivia

  • Has co-written many books with his wife Leni Gillman.
  • Served as editor of The Isis magazine while at Oxford.
  • Won the Boardman Tasker Prize in 2000 for The Wildest Dream.
  • Won the OWPG Outdoor Book Award in 2015 for Extreme Eiger.