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Edition 4 (2000) Winner
Peter Gillman
ピーター・ギルマン
Peter Gillman
Profile
- Gender
- Male
- Born
- 1942-01-01
- Nationality
- British
- Languages
- English
Career
- Occupations
- writer, journalist, mountaineering writer
- Active Years
- 1965-
- Affiliations
- The Sunday Times (contributor), Weekend Telegraph (former employer)
Education
| Institution | Faculty | Department | Degree | Period | Country |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dulwich College | — | — | — | 1953–1961 | United Kingdom |
| University College, Oxford | — | — | — | 1961–1964 | United Kingdom |
Awards
| Year | Award | Work | Category | Organization | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2000 | Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature | The Wildest Dream (Biography of George Mallory) | — | Boardman Tasker organization | winner |
| 2015 | Outdoor Book Award (OWPG Awards for Excellence) | Extreme Eiger | — | Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild | winner |
Awards & Nominations
Works
Major Works
Direttissima; the Eiger Assault
1967 mountaineering non-fictionAn account of the ascent of the Eiger North Face, including the fatality of John Harlin II.
The Plumbat Affair
1978 investigative non-fictionInvestigative account related to Operation Plumbat.
Fitness on Foot: Climbing and Walking for Pleasure
1978 practical / outdoorA guide to fitness for climbing and walking for pleasure.
Collar the lot!: How Britain Interned and Expelled Its Wartime Refugees
1980 historical non-fictionExamines Britain's internment and expulsion of wartime refugees.
Alias David Bowie: A Biography
1987 biographyA biography of David Bowie (co-authored).
The Duty Men: The Inside Story of the Customs
1987 non-fictionInside story of customs (co-authored).
In Balance: Twenty Years of Mountaineering Journalism
1989 essays / mountaineering literatureCollection reflecting on twenty years of mountaineering journalism.
Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour
1993 anthology (editor)An anthology collecting notable writing and pictures about Everest (co-edited).
The Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory
2000 biography / mountaineering historyBiography of George Mallory, detailing his life and attempts on Everest; served as inspiration/consultation source for a film of the same name.
- [film (documentary)] The Wildest Dream (film)
Everest: Eighty Years of Triumph and Tragedy
2001 mountaineering historyA compendium of eighty years of triumph and tragedy on Everest.
Extreme Eiger
2015 mountaineering non-fictionAccount of an ascent of the Eiger North Face in 1965; won the OWPG Outdoor Book Award in 2015.
Murder in Cairo: The Killing of David Holden
2025 journalistic non-fictionInvestigative account of the killing of journalist David Holden (co-authored).
Bibliography
- Direttissima; the Eiger Assault (1967)
- The Plumbat Affair (1978)
- Fitness on Foot: Climbing and Walking for Pleasure (1978)
- Collar the lot! (1980)
- Alias David Bowie: A Biography (1987)
- The Duty Men (1987)
- In Balance (1989)
- Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures (1993)
- The Wildest Dream (2000)
- Everest: Eighty Years of Triumph and Tragedy (2001)
- Extreme Eiger (2015)
- Murder in Cairo (2025)
Adaptations
- The Wildest Dream (inspired the film of the same name; served as historical consultants)
Style & Themes
- Literary Style
- fact-focused investigative non-fiction stylea blend of mountaineering literature and journalism
- Recurring Motifs
- the dangers of mountaineering and human dramaexploration and inquiryre-examination of historical events
Legacy
Peter Gillman is a writer and journalist who bridged mountaineering literature and investigative journalism. He is highly regarded in mountain literature for works such as The Wildest Dream and is known for long service at national newspapers and numerous co-authored books.
Trivia
- Has co-written many books with his wife Leni Gillman.
- Served as editor of The Isis magazine while at Oxford.
- Won the Boardman Tasker Prize in 2000 for The Wildest Dream.
- Won the OWPG Outdoor Book Award in 2015 for Extreme Eiger.