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Steve House

スティーブ・ハウス

Steve House

Profile

Gender
Male
Born
1970-08-04
Nationality
United States
Languages
English

Career

Occupations
alpinist, mountain guide, author, coach, entrepreneur
Active Years
1990-
Affiliations
Patagonia (ambassador), Uphill Athlete (founder/manager)
Memberships
UIAGM (IFMGA) certified mountain guide, American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA)
Influenced By
Reinhold Messner
Influenced
Uphill Athlete community and younger alpinists, Many trail runners and mountain athletes (training methods)

Education

The Evergreen State College
Ecology
Degree: 理学士 / Bachelor of Science
Year of Graduation: 1995
Country: United States

Awards

Piolet d'Or
2006
Work: Nanga Parbat — Central Pillar of the Rupal Face
Organization: Piolet d'Or
Result: winner
Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
2009
Work: Beyond the Mountain
Organization: Boardman Tasker Prize
Result: winner
Piolet d'Or People's Award
2004
Work: K7 West, Southwest Face (solo/new route)
Organization: Piolet d'Or
Result: winner

Awards & Nominations

Works

Major Works

Beyond the Mountain

2009 mountain literature / memoir

A memoir centered on the Nanga Parbat ascent, recounting House's alpinism philosophy, challenges, and preparation.

challengealpine stylepartnershipself-reflection

Training for the New Alpinism

2015 training / guide

A practical training manual summarizing the fitness, skills, and program design needed for modern alpinism. Co-authored with Scott Johnston.

fitnessendurancealtitude adaptationtraining plans

The New Alpinism Training Log

2017 training log

A logbook to record training practice; a practical companion to Training for the New Alpinism.

practice recordingperiodizationprogress tracking

Training for the Uphill Athlete

2019 training / guide

A compilation of training theory and practice for uphill athletes, co-authored with Scott Johnston and Kilian Jornet among others.

climbing performanceendurancespeed and efficiency

Bibliography

  • Beyond the Mountain
  • Training for the New Alpinism
  • The New Alpinism Training Log
  • Training for the Uphill Athlete

Style & Themes

Literary Style
concise prose with practical, technical explanationsmemoir sections are reflective and lyrical
Recurring Motifs
value of alpine styleharshness and beauty of natureself-discipline and trainingpartnership

Health

  • Severe polytrauma from 2010 fall (multiple rib fractures, collapsed right lung, spleen laceration, pelvic fractures, spinal fractures, etc.)
    2010（負傷）とその後の回復期間
    Required months of rehabilitation; prompted a reassessment and limitation of hard climbing activities.

Legacy

Has had a major influence on modern alpinism and mountain training. Through Uphill Athlete he has provided training knowledge to many mountain athletes; his books are highly regarded practical training resources.

Academic Societies

  • American Alpine Club

Quotes

  • Reinhold Messner called Steve 'the best climber in the world.'
    Source: Various interviews/reports (citation unclear)
  • "At 50 years old it is time to step aside and make room for a new generation of alpinists," (announcement of retirement from sponsors)
    Source: Instagram post (by Steve House) (2021)

Trivia

  • Won the 2009 Boardman Tasker Prize for 'Beyond the Mountain'.
  • Piolet d'Or winner (2006) for the Nanga Parbat ascent.
  • Founded Uphill Athlete in 2015 to provide training resources for mountain athletes.
  • Became an IFMGA/UIAGM certified mountain guide in 1999 and retired from guiding in 2018.